help me

are_i

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helo 2 all friends out there. im having a prob with my ecu my engine cn't get a smoth idle,b4 they say my wayering got prob so i chnge 2 complete b18c wayering n ecu n still facing the same prob. since i have done some mod 2 the engine is it posible if im using emanage ultimate with my curnt ecu (to stle the prob) or haltect sprint 500(can it be function as stnd alone?), and is it ok if im using haltext e6x or do i realy need 2 used sprint 1000. or do i just need 2 check back on the wayering n just rechip my ecu .i dont know anthng about this so pls help me im blur....:hmmmm:tq
 
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who says got wiring problem? u already changed the wiring and still got problem, then its 100% not wiring problem. idle problem could be alot of things, could be the ecu (but u changed already). and u mentioned rechip? maybe its the chip. last time my chip also gave me problems. change back to oem ecu and test?

also could be alot of things. but firstly, what idle problem? not smooth as in eratic idling or what? or very rough like whole car shaking .. ?

pls be more specific.
 
yup2 1st is 1st the idle is so worse, it can't stay at 1k rpm ske2 go up n down, plus i never done any rechip after i chnge 2 the new wayering n ecu . so curently my ecu is stndrd n i just pln 2 rechip my ecu 2 setle the prob is it ok or not ?and 1 more i have chnge the intake n trotle body to skunk 2 n super 90 is tht the reason all of this thing hapen
 
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it only happened after you changed the intake and tb? if so, i suspect the tb is the cause. super90 is known to give crappy idle, due to its screw that controls idle... not designed properly. however, some users have no issue with it while some complain about it. my advise to u is, try to use back your oem tb and see. if problem still occurs, it could be the tps sensor on the tb as well.

cuz when u change to tb, u take the sensor from the ori tb. notice what funky screws honda used for the tps? reason for that is cuz they dont want u to temper with the sensor. a slight +ve or -ve adjustment will screw your idle and it will give u eratic idling.

so,

1) change to ori TB and see
2) adjust tps to as center as possible, try playing around with it (tap it gentle to each side to see the effect)
 
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waaaaaa is tht it. k2 tq i will try 2 chnge the tb 2 oem 1st. n if it stle the prob tht mean my super 90 is suck la kn. so wht is ur recommended aftermarket tb if im still insist 2 uset biger tb
 
I honestly think oem tb is sufficient unless your engine is modded internally (pistons). Else I don't see a reason for bigger tb. But if u insist, branded aftermarket tb's should be good. Like skunk2.. Original one that is. Now got alot of Taiwan/china made stuff so becareful.
 
ooo ic now tq2 so much

i just finis done with wht u advice me 2 do. end up it was not bcoz of the tb o intake or the ecu , the prob is just becouse of the injector we found out the injector was a h22a since i dont have any back up managmnt tht coz the prob. yup i do chnge the piston to high comp piston tht y i insist 2 chnge the tb hehehe
 
Ohh. Haha. Yeah. H22a injectors are too big. U need their ballast and a managment, at least vafc to tune it else the car will be like running on 2 cylinders only. Glad that u solved your problems.

Sounds like your car is a monster... ! High comp, big injectors.. Big tb and intake... Fuh. Make sure got good exhaust headers too!
 
ok now i get it hehehe tq 2 u hmmmmmmmm no la not a monster just a little one only by the way i used jasma replica 4-1 extrctor is it ok. i saw a new dsign of extractor for honda have u see it wht do u think about the peformance . hmmm bout the injector how would i know it is a b18cr or other b series injector n do i realy need the ballast if im back 2 used the h22a injector. coz i pln 2 used e-manage ultimate
 
What extractor are u talking about? The new design one? About the ballast I think u need it else the h22a injector won't work (I think, not entirely sure). How to differentiate, erm, hard to explain but I differentiate it by color. Not very accurate but that's the best I can do atm.

Emanage should be fine. Hope your tuner is good with them. :) my I ask, what car? Eg? Ek?
 
i ad a pic of the extractor tht i mention earlyer, so can i used a ballas from other model from b series , and wht colour is b18cr injector is coz i had buy 1 n how am i going 2 trace the colour.

hehehe ya hopefully coz i have deside 2 used e-manage ultimate. hmmm is it true alot af monster vtec out there only using vafc o afcneo only . im using eg hatchbck [


http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/picture.php?albumid=1674&pictureid=6129
 
waah, what extractors are those? cant really see with the plastic wrapping it...

injectors, h22a has a green ring around the injectors, that's all i can tell. only if we use h22a, we will need the ballast. b-series injectors don't have.
 
hmmm if im not mistaken i used 2 saw it in the net which is design by spoon for racing purpose, so the extrctor can't be used if u have an aircon system. ooo im clear with the injector issue tq. hmmm is it true alot af monster vtec out there only using vafc o afcneo only
 
Y would you want to use e-manage ultimate when u r going NA? It is true most daily driven cars r only using vafc or neo as those r sufficient. At 1 time those were the only options and were popular but personally I prefer e-manage as the price difference is not much while e-manage is have more functions.

Unless u r going FI (then u should not increase ur compression) or modding a track car, u do not need to remap your ecu (u haven't rebalanced ur engine) hence no need standalone or e-manage ultimate.

Get a vafc or e-manage (blue) and use the savings for high-cams as next mod. In fact u should do high cams 1st; piggy or standalone should be after u have done all mods else u need to redyno & reprogram after new mods
 
rakyat

hehee tq 4 ur advice. 1st of all i will not ask bout this if my engne n setup is still std hehehe
so im asking some experience advise 2 touchup my setup plus my car is not a daily car .

the reason i chose ultimate coz i heard the setup is much more detail then the blue 1 n it close to the sprint 500 correct me if im wrong.
 
rakyat,
care 2 elaborate more on dis sentence of urs--->"Unless u r going FI (then u should not increase ur compression) or modding a track car, u do not need to remap your ecu (u haven't rebalanced ur engine) hence no need standalone or e-manage ultimate. "

frm my NA experience,v SHOULD increase d compression n i'm talking abt compression ratio here,not d static compression......only whn v go FI,one shud lower d compression 2 avoid pinging,no?

also,abt remapping d ECU,r u referring to just retuning w AF gizmos like VAFC,E-Manage or ur talking abt standalone?i'm not too sure wat u mean but IMHO,even a stock standard engine can benefit frm any of d above.....even my old stock auto B16A w d usual bolt-on netted 123whp w just a simple dyno tuning session using d ol-skool Field's Boxer Series AF controller...d best part is i got much better fuel consumption after dat too.

so,i actually encourage engine management even w a stock engine....but IF u can afford it,get sumthg dat can b used 4 many more future mods dat u have planned or would like 2 perform....if u ask me n if i can afford it,it's Hondata all d way!
 
i think he typo la. he probably meant if u are going for FI, then you should not increase CR. maybe he got new recipe for power?!
 
waaaaaa new recipe eh hehehehe. i agree with the senior member here bout puting managmnt even 2 std engine sure got some improvmnt

arturo

if i go for hondata dont i still need 2 use other managmnt system 2 do some seting. so for now i decide 2 use ultimate 1st
 
If u wanted to go FI then u should NOT increase ur compression & it would make more sense to get a standalone or e-manage ultimate. For NA, e-manage blue will be sufficient but if money is not a problem then like Arturo I prefer hondata over ultimate.

Since u r modding a track car then ultimate have a few more 'tricks' and your can data log to review your engine performance after the run.

I think the basic difference btw blue & ultimate is the 'alternate setting' on the fly, more ports for adidtional sensors, 6 cylinders control, idle control, data logging & more detailed fuel/rpm map. Most functions r not used or beneficial for a daily driven NA car

The increase on a standard car is from the AFR which by default is burning rich (factory setting) & u can get the same gain with improved FC with e-manage blue.

Remapping ecu = standalone; piggyback just trick (increase or decrease) OEM setting
 
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