Exhaust Temp Meter

reintel

500 RPM
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sifus, care to explain how to read the readings. All i know if the temp reach above 800'c the car running lean and will destroy the engine and the turbo. is it true?
 
as what i know and what i read from website....the leaner u got lower the temp, the richer also u got lower the temp.

peak temp only occur at 14.7 afr means at STOICH. dunno if its true or not since i dun even tune my car using the EGT meter eventhough i have one :P

EGT also rise when u retard the ignition timing and fall down as u advance ur ignition timing (i try this before and it is true indeed). u can try it to figure it out. and i dun think 800*C would destroy the turbo. my previous setup can reach 700*C ++ but now going down to 630*C
 
Dude,

Doesn't the placement of the egt sensor come into play as well? some people fit it it on the extractor. Heard that some even put 4 sensors in as well for 4 different meters on the extractors. there are some that fit it on I dunno which part of the turbo. where is your placement? Mine is placed on the downpipe...which is not the most accurate..sorry to stray off the topic. I'm actually using autometer EGT which has Farenheit reading ? Not sure...but yea...read that above 900 degrees you'll be running too lean...need some sort of a piggyback or management to control air flow...
 
Flamefox,

thanks for the info.

chanl55,

The egt is placed at the turbo header, thus shud give better reading. However, im suspecting the engine is running lean on high rpm as the temp goes as high as 1000'c. but when the injector start shooting the fuel, the temp goes down.

how to control fuel injector wif rebic 3? currently running additional injector in every cylinder. whenever its fire, the car jerk like hell but speed increasing. is the fuel too much?
 
I have says this to my friends for a while: do not use EGT to tune their car.

In my opinion you should setup your air/fuel and timing until you have the car at an air/fuel and timing level that makes the power you want. Now after your car is set, start to pay attention to your EGT more and see what the numbers are reading. Whatever EGT you are seeing now is what your car is happy with and where the gauge should read with the air/fuel and timing setup properly.

EGT is a product of Air/Fuel and Timing. If those are set properly then your EGT will be inline as well. Once your car is tuned you can see the EGT where your car is performed best, so if it gets hotter than usual then you know something is up.
 
leaner mixture is hotter than rich mixture... a simple way to see how does EGT relates to AFR....
 
my AFR meter sometimes constantly 'lean'.. but sometimes constantly 'rich' ... both experience during normal driving situation..

can anyone explain?
 
Originally posted by wej7219@Jan 27 2005, 12:53
I have says this to my friends for a while: do not use EGT to tune their car.

In my opinion you should setup your air/fuel and timing until you have the car at an air/fuel and timing level that makes the power you want. Now after your car is set, start to pay attention to your EGT more and see what the numbers are reading. Whatever EGT you are seeing now is what your car is happy with and where the gauge should read with the air/fuel and timing setup properly.

EGT is a product of Air/Fuel and Timing. If those are set properly then your EGT will be inline as well. Once your car is tuned you can see the EGT where your car is performed best, so if it gets hotter than usual then you know something is up.
i agree with this guy. tune af ratio with wide band..then remember what EGT at that time. next time want to tune..u can guess which EGT could be ur best af ratio
 
Originally posted by stroker_kit@Jan 27 2005, 16:34
leaner mixture is hotter than rich mixture... a simple way to see how does EGT relates to AFR....
yahh...agree with this too...leaner is hotter than richer but obviously STOICH is hottest. there's a website that explain what EGT relates to afr...but i lost it :P

gibod_78 : using autometer afr meter ? hmm sorry to say, that afr meter is using ur stock narrow band O2 sensor only and using not more than 3 wires. it only can detect rich, lean and stoich. the margin also very small. so, sometimes when getting stoich... a bit richer it shows RICH, a bit leaner only it shows LEAN . it cannot show how lean or how rich u are. the best is using wide band af meter with wide band O2 sensor (at least 5 wires)..but very expensive. last i heard was 2k ++
so...for autometer...that's normal i guess
 
thank for the info..

yeah.. its better to get wide-band tuning for AFR.. accurately.. we cannot get the measurement with AFR autometer.. but at least some indications.. if u say its normal for autometer like that..then seems my setting/tuning of AFR is ok lar..
im just wondering since the meter shows differently.. i tot maybe other problems with my engine.. such as my injector not 100% ok.. or my air filter got problem.. the possibility of my injector may be 'kong' and cannot support enuf fuel.. so meter shows 'lean'..
 
If you have the opportunity, try to compare your AFR meter reading with wide band sensor reading. I can assure you that the reading is not even close and in most cases it is misleading. Even different wide band sensor shown different reading. It is not just about the sensor but also the equipment that interpret the sensor.
 
i dont think you should use an EGT to determine the A/F,
it's just for keeping track of the temperature.
 
my case kinda strange...
i went for dyno tune at speedwork, obviously using wideband tuning which i totally understand taht it is more precise than a narrow band.. but then when i compare the AFR on the graph, surprisingly, its really close to what i get from the standard APexi TT AFR reading....
for eg. when i hi throttle at around 5krpm, i get 12.5 reading...the graph from speedwork shows 12.3.... its either speedwork O2 sensor is less accurate or my standard O2 sensor is too accurate than any other standard narrow band O2 sensor... heheheh
anyway, i do get strange reading once in a while liek what gibod_78 says... but most of the time, its normal lorr...
btw, im driving a Daihatsu L9 engine...different engine may have different characteristic/reading....
 
well.. not to say autometer is accurate.. i believe must have some difference with wide band..

for every LED light in the meter (from Lean-Stoich-Rich) every LED have its measurement.. cant remember lah.. must read manual carefully.. hehehhe...
 
that's better. got money then install it lah..no worries but still wide band air/fuel meter is the best
 
aahh forgot this stopic already. for ur information..my EGT is now around 700*C ++..i dun think 800*C will destroy the turbo..but maybe 1000*C does. dunno la. i dun have proof to give
 

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