qns : improving low-end/torque

rbth x 0408

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hey
any bros here can advise on improvement of low-end
driving stock ae101

currently thinkin of changin to 7a block with 4a head

is this feasible??
 
hey
any bros here can advise on improvement of low-end
driving stock ae101

currently thinkin of changin to 7a block with 4a head

is this feasible??

lightweight pulley, lightweight flywheel, and supercharger (not recommend) will help a lot in low end torque..

BTW, your 4A head is mean 4AG head? If yes.. nice combination le...
 
hey
any bros here can advise on improvement of low-end
driving stock ae101

currently thinkin of changin to 7a block with 4a head

is this feasible??

"improving low-end"

maybe u can try to :-
1st- refresh ur engine and make it healthy. i.e ovhaul, servicing and replacing all the what ever thing that need to service/repair or change.
2nd- u also can change some of the oem parts to a lighter one. i.e pulley, flywheel etc
3rd- upgrade ur intake and exhaust syst.
4th- replace ur stock ecu with 'chipped-aftermarket' one......tadaaaaa...

if u are planning to change the block, that a another different kind of story la...
 
hey
thanks for e replies

ahaha
sorry is 4afe..haha..purely stock..

heard changing to lightweight flywheel n pulley e car maybe be harder to accelerate or move off from start??

haha
what kinda diff story??
 
hey
thanks for e replies

ahaha
sorry is 4afe..haha..purely stock..

heard changing to lightweight flywheel n pulley e car maybe be harder to accelerate or move off from start??

haha
what kinda diff story??

1- errkkk, i tot 4ag.

2- u heard only.......dont know yet right...?

3- 4a is different story , 7a is different story la...
 
bro... 4afe is already good in low end torque compared to stock 4age, changing to lighter pulleys and flywheel will definite improve the overall resposce but i dun think will help much on the low end torque. i tried lightened pulley on my 4afe before. and it didnt help much on the low end..

suggestion and things i did with my 4afe

centre bullet to replace midbox (pineapple shaped type) = better response and torque
aftermarket airfilter e.g k&n or apexi = better power and high range but low range sucks
lightened pulley = better response but not improvement on the torque
using levin twin muffler = more power at high range, little improvement on torque


if u wan best of both world ( power and torque) convert to bt lah!!! racun racun....
bt formula = ligthened flywheel + aftermarket 4-2-1 extractor... sure got torque one.... or even better 7age.. muahahaha.....
 
hey
thanks for all the replies bro
sorry
i meant harder to control in jams n slopes??
then again dunno how true la
will definitely consider lighten flywheel with so many bro/sifus recommending:idea:

likely to be changing to a 4-2-1 extractor 2" throughout (scottwrx bro...e midbox can be change whilst doin that right??)

actually thinkin of just using the 7a block now with 4afe head
then play till sian (n more money) then find 4age head
:biggrin:

but too noob liow scared do wrong thing end up with worse results
 
hey
thanks for all the replies bro
sorry
i meant harder to control in jams n slopes??
then again dunno how true la
will definitely consider lighten flywheel with so many bro/sifus recommending:idea:

likely to be changing to a 4-2-1 extractor 2" throughout (scottwrx bro...e midbox can be change whilst doin that right??)

actually thinkin of just using the 7a block now with 4afe head
then play till sian (n more money) then find 4age head
:biggrin:

but too noob liow scared do wrong thing end up with worse results

ohhh..... i know what u mean , lighter flywheel will cause then engine to have a lower inertia, hence easier to stall the engine and slight difficulty when when uphill... this is the concept of inertia that i have juz learnt on the last thread i posted... u can check the lightened flywheel thread too know more...

as far a i know, by using lighter flywheel, ur engine will have a lower moving weight, a.k.a inertia, so will tend to have a lower torque n slight difficulty when goin uphill.. the plus side is engine will be more responsive.. i m using lightened flywheel on my 4age, and some times if i dun step enough gas, will stall my car also... u can forget about the aftermarket parts for 4afe, they are close to none.... dun waste time n money to make ur 4afe faster.. instead save money to convert to 4age or play with 7afe first...

midbox can be changed anytime...exhaust shop will cut the midbox and replace with bullet... damn easy... but i wont recomend to waste money on it.. save it for conversion and get a real full set piping from japan, bullet cost 180-250, where as full set piping plus muffler only 450-650 +-
 
hey
thanks for all the replies bro
sorry
i meant harder to control in jams n slopes??
then again dunno how true la
will definitely consider lighten flywheel with so many bro/sifus recommending:idea:

likely to be changing to a 4-2-1 extractor 2" throughout (scottwrx bro...e midbox can be change whilst doin that right??)

actually thinkin of just using the 7a block now with 4afe head
then play till sian (n more money) then find 4age head
:biggrin:

but too noob liow scared do wrong thing end up with worse results


harder to control in jam? ermm... no ar... Me no face this problem...
4-2-1.. is good for higher rev.... low rev is better with 4-1 extractor setup...1.8 piping would be nice... and s-flow muffler too.. (use as auto car setup)

if use 7A block.. why don't you put it together with 7A head? same only ma... didn't it?
 
harder to control in jam? ermm... no ar... Me no face this problem...
4-2-1.. is good for higher rev.... low rev is better with 4-1 extractor setup...1.8 piping would be nice... and s-flow muffler too.. (use as auto car setup)

if use 7A block.. why don't you put it together with 7A head? same only ma... didn't it?


Bro, i m dun really understand about when u say 421 is for hi rev n 41 is for low rev... mind to share more on that? coz from what i know is hks 4-4-1 extractor is also known as racing headers... n from my understanding, racing headers is meant for those constanly on hi rev to get the most hp...

coz i m using hks 4-2-1 now, and i am damn happy with the 2-3.5k rpm torque n response...

may be will try 4-4-1 n see how is the performance..

i dun know about extractor well..... plz shoot if wrong
 
Last edited:
Bro, i m dun really understand about when u say 421 is for hi rev n 41 is for low rev... mind to share more on that? coz from what i know is hks 4-4-1 extractor is also known as racing headers... n from my understanding, racing headers is meant for those constanly on hi rev to get the most hp...

coz i m using hks 4-2-1 now, and i am damn happy with the 2-3.5k rpm torque n response...

may be will try 4-4-1 n see how is the performance..

i dun know about extractor well..... plz shoot if wrong

I also hard to say... some said 4-1 is for accelerate, some said 4-1 is for high rev...
i used 4-1 extractor before... found that,... 4-1 respond better at low rpm than 4-2-1...


Anyway.. this is old timer thread..that had been discuss before... http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/toyota/67829-4age-exhaust-experiment-report.html


Generally, the exhaust manifold is the part which collects the exhaust gasses from the respective cylinders of the engine to lead the flow of the collected exhaust gas to an exhaust pipe. In a 4-cylinder engine, usually four runners or pipes are used. In one type, the four runners are directly connected to a gas confluence part that is connected to the catalytic converter and leads to the exhaust pipe and muffler. In another type, the runners are connected in two pairs respectively to the gas confluence part.

The former type (in which the four runners are directly connected) is generally called 4-1 type. In this type first, second, third and fourth runners are connected to a gas confluence part with uniform spacing between the runners at the point they join the confluence part. The gas confluence part is provided with a sensor installation slot for installing an oxygen sensor.

While this type of manifold has a simple structure, the spacing between the runners is narrow where it joins the gas confluence part. As a result, the gas confluence part frequently cracks due to thermal stress, with the result that the overall life of such an exhaust manifold is decreased. An additional drawback exists in that exhaust gas interferences occur between the runners in accordance with the ignition sequence (first cylinder→third cylinder→fourth cylinder→second cylinder).

The second type of manifold (in which the four runners are connected to the gas confluence part in two pairs) is generally called 4-2-1 type. In this type the first and fourth runners are joined together in a Y-shape before being connected to the gas confluence part. Likewise, the second and third runners are joined together in a Y-shape before also being connected to the gas confluence part. As a result, only two passages, i.e., a passage which has been formed by the joining of the first and fourth runners, and another passage which has been formed by the joining of the second and third runners, are connected to the gas confluence part. The gas confluence part is also provided with a sensor installation slot for installing an oxygen sensor.

This 4-2-1 type exhaust manifold has an advantage that the flow of the exhaust gas is more efficient compared with the 4-1 type exhaust manifold. However, in this exhaust manifold, because the first runner and the fourth runner face toward each other, if the length of the first and fourth runners is too short, an exhaust gas interference cannot be avoided in accordance with the igniting sequence (first cylinder→third cylinder→fourth cylinder→second cylinder). As with the 4-1 type exhaust manifold, the spacing between the runners is narrow where they join the confluence part, again resulting in thermal stress cracks.

Further, the 4-2-1 type exhaust manifold is more complicated in its structure compared with the 4-1 type exhaust manifold. Consequently, the manufacture is more difficult and the weight greater
 
Yaya.
Or you can try wearing heavier boots on your right foot while driving.
Gives you the impression that your accelerator pedal is lighter.
Works swell for me! :rofl:
 
hi,if wanna go 7a and your ori engine is 4afe, y dont you just swap the whole 7afe ino your car..

Not trying to flame k.. Just my humble opinion.
7A-FE on its own is kinda vanilla though.. if really considering swap.. 4A-GE Blacktop probably the better way to go. Bang for your buck. Don't underestimate the power of a 1.6
You'll instantly FTG (Feel The Goodness)

A lot of blokes here would swear by the durability and rev happy nature of the blacktop. Myself included.

:nurse::nurse::nurse:
So when in doubt.. always remember to FTG
Peace out.
 
hey
thanks to all the sifus for all e advice

was advice by a mech to change to 7a block for lower end power
didnt ask why coz didnt understand much at that time...only read up abit the realise what he's saying so didnt ask much too..haha

anyway regarding the blacktop
did think of changin to that
but my final aim of the car is a 7age
so maybe i change to 7a block 1st??

then again dunno the process behind
think in mind only
hahaha
 
hey
thanks to all the sifus for all e advice

was advice by a mech to change to 7a block for lower end power
didnt ask why coz didnt understand much at that time...only read up abit the realise what he's saying so didnt ask much too..haha

anyway regarding the blacktop
did think of changin to that
but my final aim of the car is a 7age
so maybe i change to 7a block 1st??

then again dunno the process behind
think in mind only
hahaha


I'm currently in the process of changing my 4A block to 7A too.
Its a long term project that might take a couple of months to save up the quid... but here's what I found out.

In a 7A-GE rebuild you would be using the block, conrod, crankshaft and flywheel from the 7A-FE
Everything else is from the 4A-GE.

Which means.. it would probably be easier if you went for a blacktop first.. and source for the 7A bottom end later. Its like.. preparing a base for modification.

But trust me on this.. you might want to test out the stock blacktop first. The power is quite sufficient for most drivers. You'll definitely FTG (Feel The Goodness)

:nurse::nurse::nurse:

Peace out
 
7afe is much cheaper solution than 4age blacktop. everyone knows 4age blacktop is the best solution. i read from the early thread and it seems TS is on a budget, that's y i suggest him for using 7afe..sorry for the confusion..i am a noob in car modding..:cheers:
 

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