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Insulation!!
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<blockquote data-quote="defcon1" data-source="post: 1790759" data-attributes="member: 30064"><p>Doing the doors...</p><p></p><p>After my rather interesting Saturday of healthy sauna and stretching excercises, followed by entertaining about 120 guests in the evening...I was completely wasted by midnight...but I did manage to wake up by 9 am on Sunday to complete the job.</p><p></p><p>Dragging my weary and aching bulk out of bed, I decided to get an early start on the grunting and cursing that usually goes hand in hand with my work on the car... <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1425" alt=":smile:" title="Smile :smile:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":smile:" /></p><p></p><p>On Sunday, I was a living testament that too much of a good thing will kill you. Sauna and stretching is all very good...in moderation...but 7 hours of it <strong>WILL</strong> kill you.</p><p></p><p>After gently brushing my teeth (I could swear that even they ached), and washing up, I gingerly made my way downstairs...taking the stairs one step at a time...and practically hobbled my way into the kitchen to look for breakfast. One very important thing to remember...a very strong, hot cup of coffee the morning after you do your soundproofing...is mandatory and a life saver... <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1425" alt=":smile:" title="Smile :smile:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":smile:" /></p><p></p><p>Sitting with my hot coffee in my hands...and a light breakfast already despatched...I assessed my aches and pains whilst trying to decide if I should take the doors apart. My desire for a quiet car and better audio performance won over my assessment of aches and pains. Finally...consoling myself with the thought that if I still ache, that means that there must still be some muscle in there somewhere since fat doesn't ache... <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/rofl.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":rofl:" title="rofl :rofl:" data-shortname=":rofl:" /> ... I made my way to my car with some no. 10 spanners and my screwdriver set.</p><p></p><p>Taking the door apart is easy. </p><p></p><p>1. Take off the plastic moulding behind the door opening handle. It's clipped on so just insert a screwdriver under it and ply out.</p><p></p><p>2. Then, take off the handgrip on the arm-rest (the little cup that you use to close the door). There is a plastic tab at the bottom hiding a screw under it. Just insert a small screwdriver under the tab, flick it off, and unscrew the cup.</p><p></p><p>3. There are 2 screws on the lower part of the door moulding. Take these off.</p><p></p><p>4. You should also take out the courtesy light as the wire clip inside is difficult to clip back on if the light is still attached to the door moulding. Just flip off the cover with a small flat screwdriver, undo the 2 screws that hold it, and unclip the wire behind it.</p><p></p><p>Once these are off, the door moulding is held by 4 clips. Just unclip, unplug the wires going to your door switches, and remove the moulding.</p><p></p><p>Moulding off...stow it away somewhere where it won't get damaged...inside, there is a metal handle (the metal piece that goes into your arm-rest in the door moulding) that has to come off. It's secured by 4 screws and isn't too tightly screwed on. With this handle off, the entire plastic sheet that protects the car moulding from moisture can come off leaving the door bare.</p><p></p><p>You will need to clean the inside of the door. Some people just clean with thinner or petrol. I cleaned out the dust with a bucket of soapy water and a cloth first. Then let it dry, and one last cleaning with thinner before apply the bitumen. You will want to ensure that the flat outer skin of the car is completely clean so that the bitumen will adhere properly to the surface.</p><p></p><p>The holes in the door look large, but considering the thickness of my arm, it wasn't easy applying the bitumen. Best way is to apply in pieces. Cut 2 pieces for the bottom left and right, then 2 pieces more for the top left and right. You don't really need full 100% coverage, so don't worry about small areas still uncovered. After apply the bitumen as best as you can and pressing them down firmly to ensure that they will stick and stay, do one more important thing.</p><p></p><p>The front dor speaker is screwed into a speaker moulding on the door. Remove this moulding and applly a layer of Raammat behind it on the door frame (door frame is the layer INSIDE the car, the skin is the outer layer). You will want to cover all the metal in that area of the door on the <strong>INSIDE</strong>. Cut out the speaker hole, and punch through the screw holes again to make reinstalling the speaker moulding easier. Reinstall the speaker moulding and make sure you get your speaker polarity right when you plug back in the wires. This will improve your speakers' performance tremendously.</p><p></p><p>Insuflex - I used 6mm Insuflex to cover the upper half of the door moulding, on the inside that is to be in contact with the door frame. The lower half of the moulding is rather tight and 6mm of Insuflex would have made it almost impossible for the clips to clip in again.</p><p></p><p>Once done, reinstall the door moulding...in reverse sequence to how you removed it, and you're done. Total job can be done in 2 - 3 hours and the effect is distinct.</p><p></p><p>Results in next post... <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1425" alt=":smile:" title="Smile :smile:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":smile:" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="defcon1, post: 1790759, member: 30064"] Doing the doors... After my rather interesting Saturday of healthy sauna and stretching excercises, followed by entertaining about 120 guests in the evening...I was completely wasted by midnight...but I did manage to wake up by 9 am on Sunday to complete the job. Dragging my weary and aching bulk out of bed, I decided to get an early start on the grunting and cursing that usually goes hand in hand with my work on the car... :smile: On Sunday, I was a living testament that too much of a good thing will kill you. Sauna and stretching is all very good...in moderation...but 7 hours of it [B]WILL[/B] kill you. After gently brushing my teeth (I could swear that even they ached), and washing up, I gingerly made my way downstairs...taking the stairs one step at a time...and practically hobbled my way into the kitchen to look for breakfast. One very important thing to remember...a very strong, hot cup of coffee the morning after you do your soundproofing...is mandatory and a life saver... :smile: Sitting with my hot coffee in my hands...and a light breakfast already despatched...I assessed my aches and pains whilst trying to decide if I should take the doors apart. My desire for a quiet car and better audio performance won over my assessment of aches and pains. Finally...consoling myself with the thought that if I still ache, that means that there must still be some muscle in there somewhere since fat doesn't ache... :rofl: ... I made my way to my car with some no. 10 spanners and my screwdriver set. Taking the door apart is easy. 1. Take off the plastic moulding behind the door opening handle. It's clipped on so just insert a screwdriver under it and ply out. 2. Then, take off the handgrip on the arm-rest (the little cup that you use to close the door). There is a plastic tab at the bottom hiding a screw under it. Just insert a small screwdriver under the tab, flick it off, and unscrew the cup. 3. There are 2 screws on the lower part of the door moulding. Take these off. 4. You should also take out the courtesy light as the wire clip inside is difficult to clip back on if the light is still attached to the door moulding. Just flip off the cover with a small flat screwdriver, undo the 2 screws that hold it, and unclip the wire behind it. Once these are off, the door moulding is held by 4 clips. Just unclip, unplug the wires going to your door switches, and remove the moulding. Moulding off...stow it away somewhere where it won't get damaged...inside, there is a metal handle (the metal piece that goes into your arm-rest in the door moulding) that has to come off. It's secured by 4 screws and isn't too tightly screwed on. With this handle off, the entire plastic sheet that protects the car moulding from moisture can come off leaving the door bare. You will need to clean the inside of the door. Some people just clean with thinner or petrol. I cleaned out the dust with a bucket of soapy water and a cloth first. Then let it dry, and one last cleaning with thinner before apply the bitumen. You will want to ensure that the flat outer skin of the car is completely clean so that the bitumen will adhere properly to the surface. The holes in the door look large, but considering the thickness of my arm, it wasn't easy applying the bitumen. Best way is to apply in pieces. Cut 2 pieces for the bottom left and right, then 2 pieces more for the top left and right. You don't really need full 100% coverage, so don't worry about small areas still uncovered. After apply the bitumen as best as you can and pressing them down firmly to ensure that they will stick and stay, do one more important thing. The front dor speaker is screwed into a speaker moulding on the door. Remove this moulding and applly a layer of Raammat behind it on the door frame (door frame is the layer INSIDE the car, the skin is the outer layer). You will want to cover all the metal in that area of the door on the [B]INSIDE[/B]. Cut out the speaker hole, and punch through the screw holes again to make reinstalling the speaker moulding easier. Reinstall the speaker moulding and make sure you get your speaker polarity right when you plug back in the wires. This will improve your speakers' performance tremendously. Insuflex - I used 6mm Insuflex to cover the upper half of the door moulding, on the inside that is to be in contact with the door frame. The lower half of the moulding is rather tight and 6mm of Insuflex would have made it almost impossible for the clips to clip in again. Once done, reinstall the door moulding...in reverse sequence to how you removed it, and you're done. Total job can be done in 2 - 3 hours and the effect is distinct. Results in next post... :smile: [/QUOTE]
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