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<blockquote data-quote="shiroitenshi" data-source="post: 2467073" data-attributes="member: 27518"><p>probably, but that's not my dyno chart, so that one is up to the observation of the driver and mechanic, but small misfires don't cause big gaps of torque losses like a clutch slip does, so unless if the misfire is excessive, so no, you can't usually see torque loss from small misfires, unlike clutch slip.</p><p></p><p>but IMO, it's hard to get a clutch to slip, unless the clutch is worn.. an organic clutch can take the abuse of a 200hp car easily. The stock R can accept 170-180whp without issue (half-clutch launches kill it pretty fast, so that's why you probably are seeing excessive wear)</p><p></p><p>As for the chart, it's a inertial dyno, so it has smoothing correction, and so it isn't exacly the best way you would use to notice clutch slip.. I think driving your car is a better way to detect clutch slip, as the point where the clutch is likely to slip is during gear changes, not a sweep run on the dyno.</p><p></p><p>But evoX2, rather than rely on power numbers, do a timed run.. it's a much better way to gauge your car's performance.</p><p></p><p>Try doing a 100m run, 400m run, and note the times. if you are an inconsistent launcher like me, do a timed run in 3rd gear (means you don't shift at all) from 3K rpm to redline, and that's your baseline power. The numbers will be pretty consistent if you do it on a straight flat road.</p><p>The timing based on your power would be 10-16s (depending on HP), and if you take longer than that, that simply means your car is not making adequate power across the rev range.</p><p>(you can use 2nd gear as well, and you can start at 2K if you don't have a long enough road)</p><p>The only reason I use 3rd for better datalogging resolution, for my AFR and torque readout.</p><p>I want to use fourth, but redline means 170-180kmh.. (O_o)</p><p></p><p>This is a more accurate gauge of your car's acceleration.</p><p></p><p>For me, the dyno run is a tuning tool, and it's only 100% usable for troubleshooting if you can have the accompanying AFR and fuel and ignition maps, for at least 3 different runs.</p><p></p><p>Dynos try to replicate horsepower readings by not factoring in wind resistance, which can play havoc on horsepower readings, so ultimately they are just that, tools to measure horsepower in the most constant manner possible.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shiroitenshi, post: 2467073, member: 27518"] probably, but that's not my dyno chart, so that one is up to the observation of the driver and mechanic, but small misfires don't cause big gaps of torque losses like a clutch slip does, so unless if the misfire is excessive, so no, you can't usually see torque loss from small misfires, unlike clutch slip. but IMO, it's hard to get a clutch to slip, unless the clutch is worn.. an organic clutch can take the abuse of a 200hp car easily. The stock R can accept 170-180whp without issue (half-clutch launches kill it pretty fast, so that's why you probably are seeing excessive wear) As for the chart, it's a inertial dyno, so it has smoothing correction, and so it isn't exacly the best way you would use to notice clutch slip.. I think driving your car is a better way to detect clutch slip, as the point where the clutch is likely to slip is during gear changes, not a sweep run on the dyno. But evoX2, rather than rely on power numbers, do a timed run.. it's a much better way to gauge your car's performance. Try doing a 100m run, 400m run, and note the times. if you are an inconsistent launcher like me, do a timed run in 3rd gear (means you don't shift at all) from 3K rpm to redline, and that's your baseline power. The numbers will be pretty consistent if you do it on a straight flat road. The timing based on your power would be 10-16s (depending on HP), and if you take longer than that, that simply means your car is not making adequate power across the rev range. (you can use 2nd gear as well, and you can start at 2K if you don't have a long enough road) The only reason I use 3rd for better datalogging resolution, for my AFR and torque readout. I want to use fourth, but redline means 170-180kmh.. (O_o) This is a more accurate gauge of your car's acceleration. For me, the dyno run is a tuning tool, and it's only 100% usable for troubleshooting if you can have the accompanying AFR and fuel and ignition maps, for at least 3 different runs. Dynos try to replicate horsepower readings by not factoring in wind resistance, which can play havoc on horsepower readings, so ultimately they are just that, tools to measure horsepower in the most constant manner possible. [/QUOTE]
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