Menu
Home
Post Something
Forums
Current Activity
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
News & Features
The Marketplace
Cars for Sale
Engine and Performance
Chassis and Wheels
Exterior and Body
Interior and Cockpit
ICE - In Car Entertainment
Car Shops and Services
Toys and Wares
All Other Stuff
Jobs and Vacancies
Looking For
Members
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
Current Activity
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Reply to thread
See what others are reading now! Try Forums >
Current Activity
Home
Forums
Main Forums
General Talk
alternator
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="ABV9750" data-source="post: 1502323" data-attributes="member: 9375"><p>ok sufi,..(sori wrong name b4),</p><p>all alternator must have a built in ic regulator.this is to cut of excessive voltage and start up charging when its goes down.</p><p>normally, the charge range is about 13V - 14V.when you install new alternator, try measure the voltage.battery voltage is 12.6V. when engine start, the voltage increase to 13.6-14V..this is good.then apply load one by one by a/c ON,what is your reading?normally its reduce 0.1V.ON headlight, another 0.1V drop.ON radio,power amp and all the electrical device, the voltage drop 0.1V.</p><p>total left is around 13.3V..</p><p>BUT the ic regulator then try to charge up a little bit to maintain 13.5V -14V.</p><p>this is a healthier alternator.</p><p>if you got less, better refuse</p><p></p><p>bigger amp, means they drain slower vs your apply load. but they also need extra charging time. if your ic regulator kapoot, this is very dangerous since it might kill your sensor that run 16Volt.</p><p></p><p>*some case of ic regulator cut off at 14.4V and remain..but using 50A, during maximum load, the voltage will drop till 13Volt.. that's why higher Amp is better..it drop a little bit.</p><p></p><p>using 70A is better option since our wiring is old..we use NS60 battery..most of the time using maximum load...full a/c..</p><p></p><p>i buy at recond shop that cost me rm150 with 3 month warranty and its running fine till now.almost 4 years..what a worth it paying the price.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ABV9750, post: 1502323, member: 9375"] ok sufi,..(sori wrong name b4), all alternator must have a built in ic regulator.this is to cut of excessive voltage and start up charging when its goes down. normally, the charge range is about 13V - 14V.when you install new alternator, try measure the voltage.battery voltage is 12.6V. when engine start, the voltage increase to 13.6-14V..this is good.then apply load one by one by a/c ON,what is your reading?normally its reduce 0.1V.ON headlight, another 0.1V drop.ON radio,power amp and all the electrical device, the voltage drop 0.1V. total left is around 13.3V.. BUT the ic regulator then try to charge up a little bit to maintain 13.5V -14V. this is a healthier alternator. if you got less, better refuse bigger amp, means they drain slower vs your apply load. but they also need extra charging time. if your ic regulator kapoot, this is very dangerous since it might kill your sensor that run 16Volt. *some case of ic regulator cut off at 14.4V and remain..but using 50A, during maximum load, the voltage will drop till 13Volt.. that's why higher Amp is better..it drop a little bit. using 70A is better option since our wiring is old..we use NS60 battery..most of the time using maximum load...full a/c.. i buy at recond shop that cost me rm150 with 3 month warranty and its running fine till now.almost 4 years..what a worth it paying the price. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
The Marketplace Latest
original rare spec Rays Volk Racing RE30 15x7jj...
Started by
david tao
Chassis and Wheels
original rare Rays Volk Racing TE37 SAGA S-Plus...
Started by
david tao
Chassis and Wheels
original Swift Springs rear strut bar set made in...
Started by
david tao
Chassis and Wheels
Proton Preve R3 body kit
Started by
jeff6126
Exterior and Body
Perodua Ativa gear up body kit
Started by
jeff6126
Exterior and Body
BMW F10 Mperformance front skirt lip
Started by
jeff6126
Exterior and Body
Honda Civic FC fk7si front bumper set
Started by
jeff6126
Exterior and Body
brake caliper spray
Started by
jeff6126
Exterior and Body
BMW F30 M3 bodykit/diffuser set
Started by
jeff6126
Exterior and Body
Perodua Axia Rahmah bodykit
Started by
jeff6126
Exterior and Body
Posts refresh every 5 minutes
Rear Wing
Hepi New Year Alls,
Just found nice CF rear wing and seller willing to shipout to Malaysia for app. RM 1200 (Brand New)...it's worthy or can get locally?
Any issues on taxs or customs clearance?
Thanks in advance...
wtb: ORI TME RIMS WITH TAYAR.....
im looking for TME rim with tyre, and also "lancer" emblem in red colour.pls pm me or sms me at 012-3867819
Thanks
what brake pads r u using?
guys,
just wanna check with u guys, what brand of brake pads r u using? any comments on that? hows the performance and how much?
i am looking forward to change my ride's brake pads and currently looking at these...
Recent Posts
Toyota Malaysia Enters Regional GT Racing with TGR Racing Malaysia
Started by
The_Mechanic
News and Features
Home Win and Double Podium for Akash Nandy at Sepang Season Opener
Started by
The_Mechanic
News and Features
Darker Design : Mercedes-Benz Launches GLA Nightfall Edition in Malaysia
Started by
The_Mechanic
News and Features
Honda Malaysia Doubles Down on Hybrids: New CR-V Launches with Dual e:HEV...
Started by
The_Mechanic
News and Features
BateriHub Reaches 200-Store Milestone, Becomes Malaysia’s Largest...
Started by
The_Mechanic
News and Features
Search
Online now
Enjoying Zerotohundred?
Log-in
for an ad-less experience
Home
Forums
Main Forums
General Talk
alternator