alternator

[amatabx]

helo swifter...

im looking for alternator for swift cultus model... give me ur best price

Ps:/ alternator from halcut is better... atas lantai punya xmoooo (dah bosan charge xcukup)

 

[boss_11]

sorie....newbabie ere....

is there....any difrence wif recond unit compared to 2nd hand from halfcut....

 

[suzukisuis]

think no differ..as long supply cukup:shades_smile: .

 

[amatabx]

sorie....newbabie ere....

is there....any difrence wif recond unit compared to 2nd hand from halfcut....

from my experience, got different. Recond can't last longer.. supply not stable (no respon while fully usage, sportlight, aircond, lamp..) Maybe that shop 'sengal'.. donno how to recond.. but it think original alternator is much much better

brand new rm250... :mouth_closed: xlarat wooo

anyone??

 

[ABV9750]

this is base on my xperience. i use recond alt. and it last till now...about 4 years.i'd a potong parts and its done at a few month onli.
my point is not to compare but the intention is measure your current usage and needed. gti require a stable current but the alt design is sleek to due space constrain. when you have a heavy loaded, you must think of upgrade your alt. a vitara 70A is suite.but a bit bigger. i think DZZ has found another alternative..90A??errr..good job.
just take this as a note:- bigger Amp require more mechanical charging.if youre in town, forget it..your batt won't fully charge.

recond onli replace a coil.there still hav the regulator but they dun hav spares.thats why they put a 3 months warranty change if any.if after replace you found this problem..try replace others..or your wiring is the rootcause.
try add 4awg or bigger grounding at both engine to side firewall. or troubleshoot where's the leak.

 

[amatabx]

this is base on my xperience. i use recond alt. and it last till now...about 4 years.i'd a potong parts and its done at a few month onli.
my point is not to compare but the intention is measure your current usage and needed. gti require a stable current but the alt design is sleek to due space constrain. when you have a heavy loaded, you must think of upgrade your alt. a vitara 70A is suite.but a bit bigger. i think DZZ has found another alternative..90A??errr..good job.
just take this as a note:- bigger Amp require more mechanical charging.if youre in town, forget it..your batt won't fully charge.

recond onli replace a coil.there still hav the regulator but they dun hav spares.thats why they put a 3 months warranty change if any.if after replace you found this problem..try replace others..or your wiring is the rootcause.
try add 4awg or bigger grounding at both engine to side firewall. or troubleshoot where's the leak.

ok bro... correct me if im wrong

swift std alternator is only 50A. If i use bigger one like vitara 70A, is it ok? because i dont think swift got kapasitor to return the load... for ur info, when i used my air-cond, my timer will blinking (below 12volt). At the same time, my idling will goes down..

2 times change my aternator.. thinking to buy a new one.. :baring_teeth:

 

[phanter]

haiyyaaa...bro...what so kecoh-kecoh....ada manyak altenator atas lantai bengkel keramat...yang dah terbenam separuh dalam tanah pon ada....just mencangkung and pilih yang mana suka.....like i did..and guess what?? end up with 6 times repeat tuka itu ini....in 2 months.....so now i declare myself as an altenator hardcoreholic....wakakakaka

 

[ABV9750]

ok sufi,..(sori wrong name b4),
all alternator must have a built in ic regulator.this is to cut of excessive voltage and start up charging when its goes down.
normally, the charge range is about 13V - 14V.when you install new alternator, try measure the voltage.battery voltage is 12.6V. when engine start, the voltage increase to 13.6-14V..this is good.then apply load one by one by a/c ON,what is your reading?normally its reduce 0.1V.ON headlight, another 0.1V drop.ON radio,power amp and all the electrical device, the voltage drop 0.1V.
total left is around 13.3V..
BUT the ic regulator then try to charge up a little bit to maintain 13.5V -14V.
this is a healthier alternator.
if you got less, better refuse

bigger amp, means they drain slower vs your apply load. but they also need extra charging time. if your ic regulator kapoot, this is very dangerous since it might kill your sensor that run 16Volt.

*some case of ic regulator cut off at 14.4V and remain..but using 50A, during maximum load, the voltage will drop till 13Volt.. that's why higher Amp is better..it drop a little bit.

using 70A is better option since our wiring is old..we use NS60 battery..most of the time using maximum load...full a/c..

i buy at recond shop that cost me rm150 with 3 month warranty and its running fine till now.almost 4 years..what a worth it paying the price.

 

[boss_11]

just wanna share prices....last month...i change alternator for my vitara for 16v engine... it cost RM180 plus installation and 1 month warranty...recond...shop sumwhere jln.meru near klang parade....sorie i jus post it to share where mayb it valueable for me n others to get good bargain price....it thins happen again...

 

[zim]

from my experience, got different. Recond can't last longer.. supply not stable (no respon while fully usage, sportlight, aircond, lamp..) Maybe that shop 'sengal'.. donno how to recond.. but it think original alternator is much much better

brand new rm250... :mouth_closed: xlarat wooo

anyone??

bro,...trade-in all your GUNDAM's lerr..then buy a new one better...

 

[amatabx]

ok sufi,..(sori wrong name b4),
all alternator must have a built in ic regulator.this is to cut of excessive voltage and start up charging when its goes down.
normally, the charge range is about 13V - 14V.when you install new alternator, try measure the voltage.battery voltage is 12.6V. when engine start, the voltage increase to 13.6-14V..this is good.then apply load one by one by a/c ON,what is your reading?normally its reduce 0.1V.ON headlight, another 0.1V drop.ON radio,power amp and all the electrical device, the voltage drop 0.1V.
total left is around 13.3V..
BUT the ic regulator then try to charge up a little bit to maintain 13.5V -14V.
this is a healthier alternator.
if you got less, better refuse

bigger amp, means they drain slower vs your apply load. but they also need extra charging time. if your ic regulator kapoot, this is very dangerous since it might kill your sensor that run 16Volt.

*some case of ic regulator cut off at 14.4V and remain..but using 50A, during maximum load, the voltage will drop till 13Volt.. that's why higher Amp is better..it drop a little bit.

using 70A is better option since our wiring is old..we use NS60 battery..most of the time using maximum load...full a/c..

i buy at recond shop that cost me rm150 with 3 month warranty and its running fine till now.almost 4 years..what a worth it paying the price.

Mine drop til 11.5V when on air-cond, radio....

Thanks bro...

 

[amatabx]

bro,...trade-in all your GUNDAM's lerr..then buy a new one better...

cannot... my GUNDAM modified already... :shades_smile:

 

[ABV9750]

aha...your load is too much. please check the wiring first.please avoid a quick wire joint with celotape.check for any wire leaks to body.
improve your electrical device by install 4awg grounding with VS.
normally when the voltage drop below battery level, thats mean, your load has very high ampere...may be your a/c suck a lot?
your 100W headlight use higher amp?
your car theater suck higher am also?

i think, this problem quite synonym with GTi cause the small alternator supply to wide device. and of course, old wiring as well.

i'd the same problem b4 and still unsolve but under control by additional VS of 150uF above., 8 awg 7 point grounding and 4awg main ground., 70A alt.,copper batt head, 55/60W lower consumption bulb (phillips-latest), service a/c compressor, blower etc.
fully loaded, the voltage is at 12.5-12.6V.just nice at batt level but i suffer of 2v drop cause when no load, my charging maximum to 14.4-14.6v.

1 thing i miss:- measure every device ampere vs engine spec. rating. at wire. this would ease of troubleshooting.there must be a device that suck a lot.

 

[amatabx]

aha...your load is too much. please check the wiring first.please avoid a quick wire joint with celotape.check for any wire leaks to body.
improve your electrical device by install 4awg grounding with VS.
normally when the voltage drop below battery level, thats mean, your load has very high ampere...may be your a/c suck a lot?
your 100W headlight use higher amp?
your car theater suck higher am also?

i think, this problem quite synonym with GTi cause the small alternator supply to wide device. and of course, old wiring as well.

i'd the same problem b4 and still unsolve but under control by additional VS of 150uF above., 8 awg 7 point grounding and 4awg main ground., 70A alt.,copper batt head, 55/60W lower consumption bulb (phillips-latest), service a/c compressor, blower etc.
fully loaded, the voltage is at 12.5-12.6V.just nice at batt level but i suffer of 2v drop cause when no load, my charging maximum to 14.4-14.6v.

1 thing i miss:- measure every device ampere vs engine spec. rating. at wire. this would ease of troubleshooting.there must be a device that suck a lot.

fyi,

im using timer which tap not at the battery terminal (of course cant get exact reading)... kedai panjang pasang xbetul.. but when using fluke, the reading is much better but still not good enough to handle my 'little monster'

already through away my power AMP... minimize load 4 my car... so far wiring cun...

so the conclution is, get new alternator.... hahaha.. maybe will tried bigger alternator.. duit lagi

 

[syafique75]

I also feels the same problem. but after fits the earth wire grounding it reduce. Have you try it bro...

 

[syafique75]

Have you tried earth wire grounding bro... Maybe it can solve your problem..

 

[amatabx]

Have you tried earth wire grounding bro... Maybe it can solve your problem..

tried before (previous engine), respon cun.. then all my grounding gone (fire..fire)..

new engine, not yet.. waiting for budget :regular_smile:

 

[syafique75]

tried before (previous engine), respon cun.. then all my grounding gone (fire..fire)..

new engine, not yet.. waiting for budget :regular_smile:

Haiya... then add in the grounding wire la bro, no need to fening2 kepala la.. hahahaha.. I thought you've never done that.. Now problem solve.. I think your car have to much power la... heehehe

One more before I forgot, in seremban there is one shop called advance racing. I have compared the price with n1 and other shops in s'gor is much more cheaper here and a lot of choices.. feel free, drop by to seremban I'll show you the place and I can also kowtim with the boss...:regular_smile:

 

[phanter]

tried before (previous engine), respon cun.. then all my grounding gone (fire..fire)..

new engine, not yet.. waiting for budget :regular_smile:

hahahahahaha.....fireman......the only one and only enjin keluar api bukan ikut ekzos tapi ikut distributor!!!! walannneee.......still remember that night....pls feel free to get your absolutely free ground cable at my opis.....free for u bro.....no money involved...so many free words......come free........free...

 

[amatabx]

hahahahahaha.....fireman......the only one and only enjin keluar api bukan ikut ekzos tapi ikut distributor!!!! walannneee.......still remember that night....pls feel free to get your absolutely free ground cable at my opis.....free for u bro.....no money involved...so many free words......come free........free...

come with high performance connector or not?? belden?? :Not_Impressed: or the lutsinar cable one??