4age Auto Mod

[Cronixz]

Hi folks,

Im kind of a newbie here.. been here sometime but didn't post anything.

Lemme introduce myself. U guys can call me 'MON'

Previously owned ae101 with 4afe auto tranny stock.
Since married i've switched to 4AGE auto. Much interested in modding an 4age auto... (every single piece is stock) - muffler FGK S flow.
Been looking around but not much help or info that i can find.. or probably if there's such topic posted here Please let me know. If there is none...

Please advice and share with us...


thanks in zillionz!!

 

[chinozie]

Hi n welcome...

What kind of modification are looking for ?
Is there anything wrong with your current engine ?
Is it 16V or 20V ?

 

[Veloc]

Sorry ya... i guess the new thread you've started also related to what I've jsut started, so I've deleted mine and post a reply here instead. Hope we can get compiled answers in one thread ^^. Hope you don't mind...

Here I am considering some possible options for tuning my 4AFE compared to swapping a 4AGE. Yeah there might be more trouble but I thought of having the fun to experiment and save the trouble of going through the engine swap registration. Hope can get some input if anyone have tried or seen any of these options done:

1. Head swap with Blacktop 20V
Benefits: Cheap. Less stuff to change (pumps and all), piston are lower compression so easier to future turbo.

Doubts: Pistons less compression (don't know will affect airflow into cylinders or not), piston are not forged and high strength (not sure how fast can it spin/how much can boost). Cams might need regrind to eliminate intake-exhaust overlap.

2. Just turbo the 4AFE
Benefits: Even cheaper than 1st option, Not difficult for low boost because piston are not high compression.

Doubts: Not as powerful because of the lack of BT head. Not sure on strength of "stress parts" i.e. conrods, flywheel bolts, head bolts, pistons etc.

3. 4AGZE block and Blacktop head.
Benefits: Lower compression pistons easier to turbo in the future. VVT head improves torque and power.

 

[normality78]

2. Just turbo the 4AFE
Benefits: Even cheaper than 1st option, Not difficult for low boost because piston are not high compression.

Doubts: Not as powerful because of the lack of BT head. Not sure on strength of "stress parts" i.e. conrods, flywheel bolts, head bolts, pistons etc.

My 7afe turbo on auto gearbox last me 2 yrs plus of torture. Bear in mind, everyone telling me 7a rod will give way as its much thinner then 4a but doesnt seems to happen to me. Im using wrx td04 with max boost 1.1bar, dynoed at GT Auto 160whp with leaking boost at manifold. Oh yeah, totally stock engine, no change piston or so.

---------- Post added at 11:00 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:57 PM ----------

1. Head swap with Blacktop 20V
Benefits: Cheap. Less stuff to change (pumps and all), piston are lower compression so easier to future turbo.

Doubts: Pistons less compression (don't know will affect airflow into cylinders or not), piston are not forged and high strength (not sure how fast can it spin/how much can boost). Cams might need regrind to eliminate intake-exhaust overlap.

U cant just swap 20V head as ignition is differ. So wiring and ecu wont work.

---------- Post added at 11:02 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:00 PM ----------

3. 4AGZE block and Blacktop head.
Benefits: Lower compression pistons easier to turbo in the future. VVT head improves torque and power.

You need to check if auto gb housing will work with gze block. So far, i only seen 3units 4agze auto before. Again, same, head ignition is differ. So cant really use with Fe ecu and wiring

 

[meg_omen]

Question to thread owner:- How far in mod would you go? What's your target? Budget?

If it's still stock, best to start on handling and safety...
you'll drive faster and better, coz you're able to harness the current engine power...:hmmmm:
then only start to upgrade the engine...
- Brake: front 2pot, coz auto uses a lot of braking
- Brace: Anti-Roll Bar (ARB), Fender Bar (i believe a MUST), etc...

it's the route I start with... and 4years to complete...:proud:

 

[Veloc]

My 7afe turbo on auto gearbox last me 2 yrs plus of torture. Bear in mind, everyone telling me 7a rod will give way as its much thinner then 4a but doesnt seems to happen to me. Im using wrx td04 with max boost 1.1bar, dynoed at GT Auto 160whp with leaking boost at manifold. Oh yeah, totally stock engine, no change piston or so.

Wow... Bro... 1.1 bar boost only 160 whp? How come so little? I heard 4AFe 0.4 bar already can get around 140 whp...

 

[2 Old 2 Rusty]

My 7afe turbo on auto gearbox last me 2 yrs plus of torture. Bear in mind, everyone telling me 7a rod will give way as its much thinner then 4a but doesnt seems to happen to me. Im using wrx td04 with max boost 1.1bar, dynoed at GT Auto 160whp with leaking boost at manifold. Oh yeah, totally stock engine, no change piston or so.

---------- Post added at 11:00 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:57 PM ----------



U cant just swap 20V head as ignition is differ. So wiring and ecu wont work.

---------- Post added at 11:02 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:00 PM ----------



You need to check if auto gb housing will work with gze block. So far, i only seen 3units 4agze auto before. Again, same, head ignition is differ. So cant really use with Fe ecu and wiring

Wow ! That means it's true that the GZE auto does exist. I've been looking for a halfcut as long as I could remember but have never seen any before. I thought it never existed. Finally I gave up & dumped in a BT auto for my wife.

Cronixz,

I don't know if you're concerned with the cost of mods suggested above but in my case, I only dumped in an E-Manage piggy back ECU to get better response from my BT. My concern is the gearbox reliability when the engine is upgraded to be too powerful.

 

[normality78]

Wow... Bro... 1.1 bar boost only 160 whp? How come so little? I heard 4AFe 0.4 bar already can get around 140 whp...

primary reason coz its leaking at manifold end. Secondary due to its auto gearbox. the 4afe getting 140whp or 140hp? Dyno?

---------- Post added at 12:13 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:11 AM ----------

Wow ! That means it's true that the GZE auto does exist. I've been looking for a halfcut as long as I could remember but have never seen any before. I thought it never existed. Finally I gave up & dumped in a BT auto for my wife.

Yeah, 2x AE92 and 1x ae101. 2 of the car was in KL though. One of the Ae92, i know he is doing turbo repair in KL.

 

[pcmoddingmy]

I think that GZE auto was originally GZE manual, then when installed locally converted to auto gbox. Just my thought la... coz never seen GZE auto halfcut or ever heard of it. In our bolehland, there's even GZE 6spd... ;)

 

[normality78]

yes, its initially manual then convert auto. I do tot of gze 6spd but i kind of worry, its not that lasting coz even on BT, i heard the "failure" rate is quite high

 

[Cronixz]

Chinozie,

Its 20 valve BT.
Modification wise: smoother & better pick up. Cost is a major thing to think about. But the ride is just not moving enough... struggles...

Hi Veloc: No worries. I've didn’t came across any forums sharing about auto being modded so that’s why I started this topic. & thanks for sharing mate...


Hi 2 Old 2 Rusty:
Firstly, fixing a E-manage came to my mind few times. Still thinking about it.. Might be the last option.

Currently as I mention its running stock. However, few days back my main pulley & tensioner had some issues where loud metal sound was coming out from the belting area. Had to change main pulley and the tensioner. This time I’ve changed to Light weight pulley (MINES). Issue fixed. However, I have a new problem now. My RPM revving up so high & my KM needle showing so low. This is not contradicting. & just found out my oil filter o ring is also leaking… sigh…. When i accelerate, its like struggling to move.... i can hear then engine sound louder as in (rough)

Black oil : Eneos Semi syn.
Petrol: ron97
GB Oil : Toyota ATF

No white/black/blue smoke!

But if i open up the black oil cap - its really black in color... but i thought its common for 4age.

Whenever I hit on my pedals I can hear the engine like struggling to move…. Can feel the roughness.
I thought could be due to less black oil. Checked everything is fine.
Maybe if you guys have any idea? or did i do a mistake by changing it to light weight pulley?


Please advice.

 

[normality78]

sound like something is "slipping"?

 

[ragerunner]

It sounds like clutch slip but it's not. The symptoms sound similar. I think I have a similar problem. The engine sounds like it's huffing and puffing and maybe even coughing when it's revving up (hence the "rough" noise) yet the power doesn't seem to be what it should be. Sifu 2o2r can testify.

I haven't solved the problem, merely covering over it. I can really hear the "roughness" in my engine when I use the silencer on my muffler. So I usually remove the silencer and let the exhaust sound "cover" over the engine roughness. Let psychology take over and imagine the car is flying as I enjoy the exhaust sound =)

For my case I have been advised to do a top overhaul because my engine sounds so unhealthy. I'm planning to do a dyno to gauge the health of my engine. Whatever it is, good luck in troubleshooting and happy modding bro =)

 

[tks]

some advice...if you think your engine is unhealthy...i WOULD NOT put it on a dyno! depends on your luck, but if something's about to give, its gonna chose its time on the dyno to do so!

if you're looking for a garage, do drop me a PM or there are many many sifu's here that can assist too...

cheers!

 

[2 Old 2 Rusty]

some advice...if you think your engine is unhealthy...i WOULD NOT put it on a dyno! depends on your luck, but if something's about to give, its gonna chose its time on the dyno to do so!

if you're looking for a garage, do drop me a PM or there are many many sifu's here that can assist too...

cheers!

He's gonna redline it on the road anyway, so might as well blow it up in a workshop; at least can save some towing fees...

 

[Cronixz]

normality78

Its no slippin at all... Not sure... However, will be going to wkshop 2moro to check... will update soon...

 

[nicholas1007]

hie all, may i know if we can use RON95 fuel for BT 20V? thx

 

[2 Old 2 Rusty]

can use but ity'll run like Sh!t...

 

[nicholas1007]

may i know when i stop at the junction in slow speed or stop, & when i turn n full throttle come out from the junction my car power cannot come the instant, but after like 1sec only the power come. this case is when i switch on the aircon. but if i switch off the aircon, power come smoothly. mine one is auto BT. wat happen? izzt normal.

 

[plank]

may i know when i stop at the junction in slow speed or stop, & when i turn n full throttle come out from the junction my car power cannot come the instant, but after like 1sec only the power come. this case is when i switch on the aircon. but if i switch off the aircon, power come smoothly. mine one is auto BT. wat happen? izzt normal.

My experience after swap BT20V manual, when rapid full throttle my engine "semput2'' after 1~2 sec then comes power,,,
Then I check cable plug terminal connect to Ignition Coil have some rust... then change NGK(blue) cable plug+new spark plug problem solve,,:proud:

---------- Post added at 05:01 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:59 PM ----------

hie all, may i know if we can use RON95 fuel for BT 20V? thx

Yesterday mechanic told me don't use RON 95 on BT20V.....He said poison for your engine,,,,